THE MANOR-HOUSE BATH AND BEAUTY ROOM 1. Baths and Body Care 2.Herbal Hair Care 3.Lotions and Creams 4.Beauty in History *Cleansers and Skin Tonics *Hand and Foot Care *Bibliography (* coming soon) 1.Baths and Body Care Herbal Baths The art of using herbal baths to treat circulatory and skin problems is known as hydrotherapy. There are an infinite number of possibilities when creating herbal baths. Each depends upon the herb extracts used and the temperature and volume of the water. The best way to add herbal extracts to bath water is to sew them inside a small muslin bag. This is dangled from the tap so the water releases a fresh infusion as it flows through. A small cotton drawstring bag is useful as it can be washed and reused. You can also place herbs in a stocking foot and tie a knot in the leg. Tea bags may be used also. Water Temperature Warm baths are the most soothing as they help relax tense muscles and calm nerves. Therapeutically, warm baths are used to treat mild colds, urinary problems, low fevers, and after exercise to relax muscles and joints. Hot baths (38 c, 100 degrees F) and cold baths are more or less shock treatments for the body. Hot baths cause the pulse to increase and may leave you feeling weak and drained. Prolonged hot baths put the heart under unnecessary strain as the blood vessels expand in an attempt to cool the body. However, they can be useful to induce sweating and therefor good for eliminating toxins from the system. Cold baths also increases the heart rate, although the pulse slows down once it has recovered from the initial shock. Cold baths can be helpful for increasing the blood circulation and toning the skin. Herbal skin treatments work best in a full bath, when the body is totally submerged. Half baths tend to be cooler and are less of a strain on the system, so better for those with low blood pressure. Basic Body Scrub This exfoliator works as well as the expensive store bought ones. The sugar is mildly anti-bacterial and helps heal minor skin irritations. The salt is an efficient body buffer, and the oatmeal soothes the skin as it gently removes dead skin cells. Magickal ingredients include: PLANET ELEMENT ENERGIES OATMEAL Venus Earth Money SUGAR Venus Water Love SEA SALT Earth Earth Purification, Grounding, Protection Celebration or Ritual Use : Use this scrub before initiations, anniversaries, weddings (handfastings), protection rituals, and in preparation of spells for money and love. 4 Ounces Granulated White Sugar 4 Ounces Finely Ground Sea Salt 4 Ounces Coarsely Ground Oatmeal Mix the ingredients in a large bowl. Transfer to a jar with a screw on lid. To use, pour a small amount into the palm of your hand and massage into dampened skin. Rinse thoroughly. The mix is gentle enough to use everyday. Whole-Body Mud Pack Invigorating but messy. Magickal ingredients include: PLANET ELEMENT ENERGIES FULLERS EARTH Earth Earth Grounding APPLE JUICE Venus Water Love, Healing, Garden magick ALMOND OIL Mercury Air Money, Prosperity, Wisdom Celebration or Ritual Use: Use this mud pack in preparation of rituals and spells of prosperity and healing. Try this pack when in special need of grounding. 5 Ounces Fuller's Earth 7 Fluid Ounces Fresh Apple Juice 1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice 2 Tablespoons Almond Oil 1 Tablespoon Honey 6 Drops Sandalwood or Neroli Essential Oil Mix the Fuller's earth with the apple and lemon juices until it forms a smooth paste. Stir in the almond oil, honey and essential oil To use, apply small amounts of the mixture to the body. starting at the feet and working up. Concentrate on areas of dull, dingy skin. Gently massage the mixture into the skin and leave for a few minutes to dry before getting into the shower. Use warm water to rinse all traces of the mud pack, then shower. Basic Body Oil The grapeseed oil has a light texture. If used sparingly, it will not leave sticky traces on clothes. The wheat germ oil is rich in vitamin E and is a natural antioxidant, therefor it prevents spoilage by rancidity. 4 Fluid Ounces Grapeseed oil 1 Teaspoon Wheat germ oil 10 Drops Lavender or Sandalwood Essential Oil Mix the oils together and store in a jar with a screw top. Shake before use. Rose Petal Lotion Wonderful treatment for areas of parched, chapped skin, and smells terrific. 1/2 Ounce Anhydrous Lanolin 1/2 Ounce Cocoa Butter 4 Teaspoons Almond Oil 4 Teaspoons Glycerin (preferably vegetable) 6 Drops Rose Essential Oil (rosewood or rose geranium oils may be substituted) Put the lanolin and cocoa butter in a heat proof bowl and place in a saucepan half filled with water. Heat gently until melted and the mixture forms a smooth paste. Remove from the heat and stir in the almond oil and glycerin. Allow to cool before adding the rose oil , stirring well. Pour the mixture into a small jar. Apply liberally to dry skin after bathing. 2. Herbal Hair Care Hair is made up of a protein called keratin. It is a horny substance that also makes up our nails and the horns of wild animals. Each hair strand has a central cortes which is soft and a coating of hard scales on the outside which are the cuticles. The hair is moisturised by the bodys protective oil called sebum. This is secreted from sebaxeaous glands in the scalp and travels along each hair strand to coat the cuticle keeping them shiny and smooth. Diet is important as the hair follicles rely on a steady stream of nutrients that are supplied by the blood. Vitamins A, B-complex, c, and D are the most important. Sinc, iron and essential fatty acids found mainly in vegetable oils are also important. Basic Rules of Hair Care Wash gently in mild shampoo. Vigorous scrubbing can stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce more oil. Wash hair every other day Avoid using too much shampoo. This can strip the protective oils. One shampooing should be sufficient, unless you use alot of styling products. A light conditioner benefits all types of hair. Use a low setting on your hair dryer. It is important not to overheat your hair especially if it is colored treated or permed Use an intensive moisturing treatment once a week if your hair is dry and/or chemically damaged. Hair Care Recipes Sandalwood and Soapwort Shampoo This shampoo is gentle on the skin and is suitable for all hair types. It will not produce a lather like conventional shampoos because it is not detergent based. PLANET ELEMENT ENERGIES SANDALWOOD Moon Water Protection, Healing, Spirituality, Wishes SOAPWORT Venus Water Love, Friendship, Fidelity, Beauty, Youth CHAMOMILE Sun Water Money, Sleep, Love, Purification Magickal Associations : Protection, Healing, Spirituality, Love, Friendship, Youth, Money, Sleep, Purification Celebrations : Initiations, Marriage ceremonies, Before any ritual or spell for money 1 ounce Chopped Soapwort root 1 0unce Dried Chamomile Flowers 8 Fluid Ounces Hot Water 20 Drops Sandalwood essential Oil Place the chopped soapwort root and chamomile flowers in a bowl and pour on the almost boiling water. Stir well. Cover and leave to infuse overnight. In the morning, strain and add the drops of the sandalwood oil. To use, wet the hair and massage in a small amount of the mixture. Rinse. Dry Hair and Scalp Shampoo Gently remoisturises the hair and scalp. Soapwort root does not produce much lather but is an excellent cleanser. Magickal Ingredients Include : PLANET ELEMENT ENERGIES SOAPWORT Venus Water Love, Friendship, Fidelity, Beauty, Youth COCONUT OIL Moon Water Spirituality, Psychic awareness, Purification SANDALWOOD OIL Moon Water Protection, Healing, Spirituality, Wishes PATCHOULI OIL Saturn Earth Money, Fertility, Lust Celebrations or Ritual Uses: Use in celebrations of spring, Ostara, Beltane, for fertility and lust. Any ritual or spell to increase spirituality and psychic awareness. 1 Ounce Chopped Soapwort Root 17 Fluid ounces Hot Water 1 Ounce Coconut Oil 15 Drops Sandalwood or Patchouli Essential Oil Add the chopped soapwort root to the hot water. Cover and leave to infuse overnight. In the morning strain to remove root pieces. In a small saucepan, gently melt the coconut oil and add to the soapwort decoction. Stir in the drops of essential oil for fragrance. To use, massage a small amount of the pre-warmed mix into the scalp and rinse with plenty of warm water. Dry Ends Cream This mixture temporarily seals split ends and discourages the hair from splitting further. Nothing mends split ends once they form. 2 Ounces Coconut Oil 2 Ounces Cocoa Butter 2 Tablespoons Almond Oil 15 Drops Neroli Essential Oil In a small saucepan melt together the coconut oil with the cocoa butter. Remove from heat and stir in the almond oil. When the mixture has cooled slightly add the neroli essential oil. To use, rub a small amount between the fingertips and apply sparingly to dry ends between shampoos. This may also be used as an intensive hair conditioning treatment before shampooing. Massage into hair and scalp. Cover head with a towel to seal in body heat and leave for twenty minutes. Shampoo out Intensive Hair Conditioner Rich, dark, deeply nutritious liquid that works well on dry, chemically processed hair. Leaves hair shiny and smooth. 1 Tablespoon Black Strap Molasses 2 Egg Yolks 2 Fluid ounces Avocado or almond Oil Beat together molasses and egg yolks in a small bowl until they form a stiff paste. add the avocado or almond oil and mix. Apply to dry hair, working through the ends up towards the roots. Leave for 15-20 minutes and wash hair. You may need to shampoo twice to remove all conditioner. Re-Moisturizing Scalp Lotion Good treatment for itchy, flaky scalps 2 Fluid ounces Avocado Oil 2 Fluid Ounces Almond Oil 1 Fluid Ounce Cider Vinigar 2 Tablespoons Strong Nettle Tea 10 Drops Peppermint Essential Oil 10 Drops Lavender Essential Oil Measure the avocado and almond oils into a jar with a screw top. Add Cider vinegar and shake well. Make the nettle tea by infusing 2 teaspoons of nettle leaves in 4 fluid ounces of almost boiling water. Leave to steep for 10 minutes. Strain and add 2 tablespoons to the il and vinegar mixture. Shake vigorously. When cool, add the peppermint and lavender oils. To use, shake bottle and rub a small amount daily into the scalp by parting the hair and applying with cotton ball. Hair Rinses Herbal hair rinses help restore the correct pH balance to the hair and scalp and remove mineral deposits left on the hair by hard water. They also encourage a glossy shine. Normal Hair Fresh elderberries make a fantastic hair shiner. Simmer with water for 15-20 minutes before straining off the juice. Apply to the hair before washing. Leave for 15 minutes then shampoo. Add 1 teaspoon of cider vinegar to your final rinsing water. It is a good way to restore the pH balance and leaves hair shiny Dry and Chemically Processed Hair If you have hard water add 1 teaspoon of domestic borax to 6 pints of warm water. This will soften the water. Or add 1 teaspoon of cider vinegar to restore pH balance and 6 drops of camomile essential oil to add fragrance. Oily Hair Make a herbal infusion using 1 tablespoon of fresh chopped mint leaves, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves, and the juice of 1 lemon. Mix these with 1/2 pint of hot water. Leave to infuse for 15 minutes, strain and use as a final hair rinse. 3. Lotions and Creams A cream and a lotion are basically the same. There is more solidifying agent such as lanolin or beeswax in a cream. a.Basic Cream b.Rosewater Cream c.Moisturizing Vitamin E Cream d.Basic Lotion e.Rose Petal Lotion f.Milk and Honey Lotion g.Elderflower Cold Cream a. Basic Cream 1 1/2 Ounce Solidifier and/or solid fat such as 1 Ounce Lanolin and 1/2 Ounce Beeswax. 3-4 Skin Oil such as : 2 Ounces Almond Oil and 2 Ounces Soy Oil 1 Ounce Herb Water 5 Drops Essential Oil Melt the solidifier and/or solid fat together in the top of and enamel double boiler. Add the oils a bit at a time. Stir continuously. Turn off the heat and slowly add the herbed water, sir continuously until cool. Add the essential oil and stir in completely. Spoon or pour into a 6 ounce jar. The jar should be opaque. b. Rosewater Cream 1/2 Oz. Beeswax 2 Oz. Olive Oil 1/2 Oz. RoseWater 1/2 Oz. Sweet Almond Oil Make as directed for Basic Cream c. Moisturizing Vitamin E Cream Good for rough, dry or chapped skin 4 Oz Olive Oil 3 Tablespoons Beeswax 2 Oz Orange water 5000 Units Vitamin E 5 Drops Oil of Orange Flower or Orange Peel Melt the oil and wax using a double boiler. Remove from heat and add Orange water. Stir thoroughly. Pierce 10 capsules of 500 units of Vitamin E. Squeeze contents into the cream. Add essential oil and stir continuously until cool. d. Basic Lotion 1 Ounce Solidifier or Solid fat Such as : 1 ounce lanolin or Cocoa Butter 3 Ounces Skin Oil : 3 Ounces almond or Vegetable Oil 2 Ounces Herb Water 5 Drops Essential Oil, Optional Melt the solidifier and or Solid fat together in the top of a double boiler. Alternately, add oil and herb water, stirring continuously. Remove pot from heat. Add the essential oil and stir. Pour into small 6-8 ounce opaque glass or plastic bottle. Shake the bottle continuously until cool. e. Rose Petal Lotion Wonderful treatment for areas of parched, chapped skin, and smells terrific 1/2 Ounce Anhydrous Lanolin 1/2 Ounce Cocoa Butter 4 Teaspoons Almond Oil 4 Teaspoons Glycerin (preferably vegetable) 6 Drops Rose Essential Oil (rosewood or rose geranium oils may be substituted) Put the lanolin and cocoa butter in a heat proof bowl and place in a saucepan half filled with water. Heat gently until melted and the mixture forms a smooth paste. Remove from the heat and stir in the almond oil and glycerin. Allow to cool before adding the rose oil , stirring well. Pour the mixture into a small jar. Apply liberally to dry skin after bathing. f. Milk and Honey Lotion This lotion may be used on your face or your whole body. Melt some honey and add an equal amount of skim milk. Apply the milk and honey lotion to your skin. Massage gently then take a warm bath to rinse off. g. Elderflower Cold Cream 1 Generous Cup Almond Oil 3/4 ounce White Bees Wax Scant Cup Elderflower Water 1/2 Teaspoon Borax Melt the oil and wax slowly in a bowl over hot water. Mix the water and borax in another pan. Put the pan over hot water and stir with a wooden spoon until the borax has dissolved. Then pour the borax mixture into the oil and wax. Remove from heat and beat until smooth and creamy. 4. Beauty in History A Brief Summery Beauty care has been important since the first civilizations. It is known that the cave people of the Mesolithic period ( around 10,000 bce) softened their skin with castor oil and grease, and also used plant dyes to tattoo their skin. Skin softening lotions go back to biblical times. Sore feet were rubbed with lotions made from olive oil and spices. Powders were made from finely ground barks and roots. To keep hair smelling sweet, aromatic oils were rubbed into the scalp. Lipsticks first appeared in the ancient city of Ur, near Babylon, 5000 years age. The Egyptians also had beauty remedies. Henna and walnut rinses were used to keep dark hair shiny. It was common to bathe in ass's milk and to apply face packs made from barley and crushed sesame seeds. A type of metal known as antimony was ground to a powder and used in black kohl crayons. These were used to draw around the eyes. Semi-precious stones such as lapis lazuli and malachite were also ground to be used as eye shadows. It is said Cleopatra's lipsticks were made from finely crushed carmine beetles which made a deep red pigment. This was then mixed with ant's eggs as a base tocks. Remains of make up found in tombs shof the materials used were harsh, such as lead sulphide and charcoal. Thelphide and charcoal. These would have irritated the eyes. Reddish brown paints for the face contained clays with a high iron content. This gave them their color. Ancient Egyptians were the first to develop soap. These soaps were made from a natural cleanser called saponin, which is extracted from the soaproot or soapwort plant. Animal fats and fragrant oils were added to the formula. These soaps were used for cleaning the household as well as bathing. In the Middle East, the Assyrians added perfumed oils to their water for bathing and were scrupulous about personal hygiene. Skin scrubs first appeared around 1000 bce. These were made from powdered pumice stone. Before bathing, the Assyrians and Egyptians would rub themselves with handfuls of sand to buff the skin smooth. Assyrian men and women wore their hair elaborately braided, oiled and perfumed. A trick used to perfume the body was to tuck tiny balls of wax that contained perfume close to the scalp. The fragrance would be released by body heat and trickle down the neck to last through an evening. Men trimmed their beards into strange shapes that resembled topiary. Facial hair was a symbol of strength and power. Because of this, several Egyptian queens wore a false gilded beard on occasions of ceremonial importance. Ancient Greek women painted their cheeks with herbal pastes made from crushed berries and seeds. A dangerous development of beauty treatments was the use of white lead and mercury on faces to achieve a chalky complexion. These heavy metals were absorbed through the skin and resulted in many deaths. This so- called beauty treatment remained in vogue down the ages. Galen, the Greek physician recognized this as a problem and wrote, "women who often paint themselves with mercury, though they be very young, the presently turn old and withered and have wrinkled faces like an ape." Galen is given credit for the original recipe for cold cream. The cream was based on beeswax, olive oil and rose water. He also recommended that finely ground garden snails made an effective moisturizer. Henna was an early form of nail polish used by the Greeks. False eyebrows were made from dyed goat's hair which were attached to the skin with natural gums and resins. The Romans introduced regular shaving for men. Razors were made from sharpened bronze. Romans used many different types of natural hair dyes. Mineral quicklime gave their hair a lustrous, red-gold tinge. Walnut oil was made by steeping walnut shells in olive oil and used to keep hair dark brown when it began to turn grey. In ancient Rome blonde hair was initially considered to be a symbol of a prostitute. When slave girls were acquired from Scandinavia, noblewomen began to dye their hair lighter shade using a concentrated infusion of saffron flowers. Beauty in Britain The Romans brought with them to Britain the concept of daily bathing. They built communal baths, some of which still exist. However, once they departed Britain during the fourth century, the practice of regular bathing died out. Women during the Middle Ages did continue to wear some form of make-up, although rouge was only worn by prostitutes. Noblewomen continued to use white lead on their faces. Eyebrows were plucked and lips stained with dark red with plant dyes. Natural skin care was also popular. Most noblewomen had their own recipes for smooth complexions. To fight the destructive effects of the lead paste on the face, masks were made using ground asparagus roots and goat's milk. This was rubbed into the skin with pieces of warm bread. Elaborate braiding for hair was fashionable. A type of hair gel was made from a mixture of swallow droppings and lizard tallow by these noblewomen. Knights returned home from the Crusades with all kinds of preparations never seen in Britain. Essential oils became popular as perfumes, and were used as antiseptics to ward off the plague. Soap making was brought from Italy. At this time soap was used mostly for washing dishes and clothes but not bodies. The Renaissance Women in Venice established their own society for cosmetic testing and beauty training. Although they were learning new things, they continued to use the destructive lead paint on their faces, neck and cleavage. One new idea was the imitation of beauty mark, called beauty spots. These were originally made from small circles of black velvet and were used to hide blemishes, such as warts, pimples and pox scars. The first commercial toothpowders appeared, made from a mixture of dried sage, nettles and powdered clay. Venetian noblewomen in the 1500s would dye their hair by applying lotions derived from saffron flowers or sulphur. The color was set by by the hot summer sun, then the hair was rinsed. Europeans in general still did not bathe regularly. They believed bathing weakened the body. A great deal of perfume was used to cover body odor. One of the first European perfumeries was set up by monks of the Dominican Brotherhood in Florence in 1508. Fragrances produced included rhubarb elixir and molasses water. Scented orris powder made from ground iris roots was used to perfume clothes and household linen. Elizabethan Beauty Many Italian and French fragrances were imported by Queen Elizabeth I. The queen was one of Britain's most celebrated users of natural beauty preparations and her many portraits show her passion for cosmetics and red wigs. Elizabethan women still used white lead face paint and mercury sulphide for rouge. The lead was mixed with vinegar to form a paste called ceruse. The white lead made hair fall out and the extensive use of ceruse through the Elizabethan era explains the fashion for high foreheads, as hairlines receded. The corrosive oil of vitrol (sulphuric acid) mixed with rhubarb juice was used as a hair tonic and lightener. It also resulted in hair loss. Lipsticks were a blend of cochineal and beeswax. An iridescent eye shadow was made of ground mother of pearl. Red wine, ass's milk, rain water and even urine were used as facial cleaners. Bathing was still not fashionable. Hair was dry shampooed using fine powdered clays. These were combed through to absorb the grease and dirt in the hair. Whisked egg whites were used to tighten and glaze the skin. Beauty spots remained a ploy for concealing blemishes. Freckles were not appreciated. One remedy for their removal was an infusion of elder leaves mixed with birch sap and sulphur. This was applied to the skin by moonlight and removed in the morning with fresh butter. A popular base for rouge and skin creams was bear's grease. Make up pencils were made by mixing plaster of Paris with plant pigments to form sticks which were dried in the sun. Skin care remedies became increasingly refined after the set up of the first British toiletry company, Yardley, during the reign of Charles I. However, the use of lead based ceruse on complexions continued. High foreheads and absence of eyebrows were still fashionable. Children's brows were covered in walnut oil to decrease hair growth. Eyebrows were shaved and replaced with fake ones made with mouse skin. Wigs For men and women of the court during the time of the French revolution, cosmetics were the top of fashion. Rouge, elaborate, powdered wigs, and powders for the face were extremely popular, more with men than women. It was common for people to keep their natural hair short and unwashed under the wig, even though shampoo had been invented. The wigs were made from a mass of wool and animal grease and were highly combustible. It was best to stay away from candles. Herbs and Herbalism English herbalist Nicholas Culpeper published Culpeper's Complete Herbal in the early 1600's and has been reprinted many times. The latest edition was in 1979. Included in the book are many skin care remedies, such as broom stalks to cleanse the skin, and oatmeal boiled with vinegar to treat spots and pimples. He also recommended woodbine ointment for sunburn, wheat bread soaked in rose water to soothe tired eyes, and thistle juice for hair loss. Written in 1825, The Art of Beauty was one of the most popular books of the time. Advice included erasing wrinkles by becoming overweight, and using belladonna juice from the deadly nightshade plant to enlarge the pupils of the eyes. Regular bathing became popular at the time of George IV. Baths were a mixture of hot water and milk with herbs such as flax seeds to soften the skin. No skin creams or cosmetic were used in polite society. Only a dot of eau de cologne was respectable. Complexions were protected by green veils when outside and wearing big brimmed bonnets. Victorians viewed cleanliness as being "next to godliness." Soap was widely available but still a bit pricey. It was not till the middle of the century that indoor bathrooms were built in homes. Up till then baths were taken in tin tubs that were usually placed in front of a sitting room fire. Soap was affordable to all. Commercial soap brands such as Lever, Lux, Lifebouy and Shield appeared at this time. And cleanliness was fashionable. At the turn of the 19th century, zinc oxide was discovered to make a good face powder that did not harm the skin. A man named Max Factor worked on the stars of Hollywood. Elizabeth Arden developed a range of natural based skin care products at this time. Second World War Browning gravy or strong tea was used to dye legs if no silk stockings were available because of rationing. Max Factor's Pan Cake make up was recommended "particularly for women in the Forces or on other National work as it is very quick and easy to use... in six lovely shades from a pale flesh tint to a deep warm tan, in keeping with the colouring of the Woman's Service Uniforms." Special shades were also made for the Ministry of Defence to darken the faces of commandoes for night excursions.